When, in 1840, Queen Victoria of England wore a Honiton lace-trimmed white gown on her wedding day to Prince Albert, she kickstarted a trend that would last centuries. The lace in her dress symbolized both wealth and purity, an appealing combination for brides who hoped for prosperous unions. Silks and velvets in shades of red, pink, blue, brown, and even black were popular choices for wedding wardrobes in years past, but Queen Victoria’s trendy gown made white lace became synonymous with the perfect bride in Western culture.
While those connotations may have long since lost their relevance, contemporary designers have been embracing lace more than ever recently, filling collections in New York Bridal Fashion Week with beautiful gowns crafted in the delicate, classic material.
“I’m definitely seeing it resonate with brides as they become more individual in their style,” says Monique Lhuillier. “There’s a renewed desire for timeless elegance that’s personal.” When the designer made her return to the New York Bridal Fashion Week runway this fall, her collection featured quite a few lace gowns, and in a variety of styles. Not only were there grand ballgowns that looked ready for a walk down a cathedral aisle, but Lhuillier also offered some sexy, sheer lace dresses with a lingerie twist—perfect for a late night on the dance floor.
Monique Lhuillier, Bridal Fall 2026, New York City, October 14 2025Photo: Courtesy of Monique Lhuillier
Monique Lhuillier, Bridal Fall 2026, New York City, October 14 2025Photo: Courtesy of Monique Lhuillier
“Lace has always been synonymous with romance, but this season I wanted to reimagine it in a way that feels light, modern, and ethereal,” the designer continues. “Delicate Chantilly laces trace the contours of architectural silhouettes, balancing structure with softness. Corseted bodices and exaggerated slits bring a contemporary sensuality to the classic allure of lace, giving it fresh relevance for today’s bride.”
Other designers this season are having their fun with the fabric, too. Kyha Scott of the eponymous brand Kyha debuted her newest bridal collection in Vietnam this October with a number of fully lace dresses—a first for Scott, who often leans more minimalist in her silhouettes. “I definitely was drawn to it,” she tells Vogue after the show. “In the past, I felt like lace has been hard for me to translate in a way that has felt like it’s our brand’s esthetic, whereas in this collection I really felt that we did translate it well. This time, I felt the need to explore it.”
Photo: Courtesy of Kyha
Photo: Courtesy of Kyha
Bridal brand House of Gilles, from long-time couturier Gilles Mendel and his daughter Chloe Mendel Corgan, is another brand that had a go at working with extremely fine Chantilly and point d’esprit lace this season—with results that felt full of elegance and whimsy, and proved to be among our favorite designs of the season. “It’s something new for our house to explore, and it’s been such a pleasure—a softer, more modern way of working with lace that feels quietly romantic, creating pieces that feel like modern heirlooms,” Corgan explains.
Photo: Courtesy of House of Gilles
Photo: Courtesy of House of Gilles
“For me, lace is about the subtleties—the touch, the transparency, the light,” says Mendel. “We wanted to show the handwork, but in a very delicate way. Each layer and appliqué was placed to follow the body softly; never heavy, always refined. It’s in these small details that true couture exists.”
Whether they work with Mendel or the many other major bridal houses that have found their own ways into the fabric this season, brides-to-be in the year ahead are sure to find a lace gown that fits their own bridal style.
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