Lorenzo Serafini may have once been fond of the word quiet, but he has since edited it out. “It has become an overexposed cliché. It’s lost all meaning,” he says. When asked to describe Alberta Ferretti’s particular strain of romance, he now reaches for serene and progressive, terms that feel vivid to him. He favors discretion over display, the privacy of the inner world over the cacophony of social media. Apparently, keeping your Instagram circle small is actually pretty cool. Clearly he has his finger on the pulse.
Serafini is rewiring Ferretti’s romantic codes around a vision of femininity that’s as reserved as it is sensual: a woman who understands the allure of a little mystery. For pre-fall, he wrapped the silhouette in capes of double-cashmere, the kind you slip on like a favorite jumper while looking chic, unpretentiously plush, and practical. If ease counts as the new luxury, Serafini seems to have a thoughtful handle on it.
The approach to tailoring was equally fluid and soft; his daytime pajamas, which he called “new versions of the suit,” were crafted in crisp wool, and when slipped beneath a shearling coat shaped with the nonchalance of a robe, they carried a spontaneous, uncomplicated chic. His bias-cut dresses, whether in envers satin or dévoré velvet, trace the body in sinuous lines, revealing just enough without ever surrendering the mystery. “They have to feel easy to move in, not constrained,” he noted.
Languid yet sensuous, flattering to many body types, and often finished with stoles or matching fluid capes, these pieces are becoming signatures of the label’s new course. Serafini calls them manta dresses, as in manta rays, after their liquid, drifting movement. Designed to respect the body rather than dominate it, they safeguard what Serafini describes as radical discretion. “For me,” he said, “seduction isn’t about display; it’s about revealing oneself with intention.”
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