At Singita’s Newest Safari Lodge in Tanzania, High Design Meets True Adventure

It’s 6:30 a.m. on the Grumeti Game Reserve, and the sun is rising from behind the silhouette of just-visible hills across the horizon. As far as the eye can see, pockets of scrub and golden grassland dot the savannah; above it, streaks of gray cloud begin to glow with the dusty pink and purple of the morning sun. Looking closer, I spot a cluster of trees rippling far in the distance; the telltale wobble meaning lions are on the prowl, making their final go-around after a long night of hunting. It is about as picture-postcard a view of the East African wilderness as you’re likely to get, and I’m taking it all in—this bigger-than-an-Imax-screen window onto nature at its most primal—under a cozy woolen blanket on the sofa of my own private terrace, a mug of freshly brewed coffee in one hand and a pair of binoculars in the other.

I had traveled to Tanzania, to a 350,000-acre reserve on the northwestern corner of the Serengeti, to visit Singita Milele. This new, exclusive-use lodge promises to offer what is about the most private—and luxurious—safari experience you can have. But I had also traveled here partly to find out what all the fuss was about regarding Singita: numerous trustworthy sources had told me that there are safaris, and then there are Singita safaris. That isn’t merely because of all the bells and whistles (and wellness treatments and swimming pools and chef-prepared meals—and those cozy, cozy blankets), but also due to their pioneering, passionate commitment to conservation. The family-owned company bills itself as a “conscious hospitality” outfit first, and a portfolio of luxury African lodges second.

My journey began with a long flight to Kilimanjaro airport, where I was greeted with the predictably delightful chaos of customs at a remote East African airport—but within moments of being greeted by the Singita team at the baggage claim and being plied with homemade snacks, the experience had begun. Within minutes, I was being whisked away to the charming Legendary Lodge—a cluster of lodges scattered around elegantly landscaped gardens, the shadow of Kilimanjaro looming in the distance—on the outskirts of town, where four-poster beds, an outdoor massage, and a hearty three-course dinner awaited us.

The next morning, it was back to the airport to fly Grumeti Air out to the reserve. As we approached our landing, the landscape of this truly idyllic corner of the world unfolded: lush grasslands, tendrils of river snaking their way across the plains, clusters of animals feeding and watering that appeared, from above, like toy figurines. After landing, you could really feel the magic: the “airport terminal” out here was an elegant tent tucked away beneath the shade of a sprawling acacia tree, and upon entering, cool scented towels and iced tea were served to us as we filled in the necessary paperwork and watched our luggage be carted off up Sasakwa Hill in open-top Land Cruisers.