Roughly two months have passed since Carven’s spring 2026 show, a subtly sensual, effortlessly wearable collection that marked Mark Thomas’s debut as director of design. With this lineup, we are leapfrogging back to looks that will arrive in stores before what appeared on the runway. Yet Thomas explained that he has envisioned everything in continuity. “This isn’t concept-heavy; we’re creating beautiful clothes for women to wear in springtime.”
Double entendre unintended, he called this collection his “springboard.” Whether the tweed trench coat and trousers, a double-face taffeta parka, or a padded silk mini dress topped with a long coat, what stands out is how these looks hit the sweet spot of sophistication and ease. They remain pretty much monochromatic, swinging from tones of black and brown to a more vivid carmine along with pale blue and a custard yellow. To touch what looks like a gray melange jersey crewneck and matching straight skirt is to feel that they are actually plush cashmere.
“When you are creating such a pared-back silhouette, color, fabric and proportion are really the elements that we get to play with that make this so special,” he said.
As a counterpoint to the tailoring, Thomas mentioned how a vintage Carven silk scarf sparked various flou reworkings; see the champagne-hued top luxuriously tied at the back, the faintly printed wrap dress, and skirts with wraparound panels. Fusing a silk front with a grain de poudre back, a menswear-inspired trouser appears formal, fluid, and flattering.
Certain pieces—including a compact bag—have been softly padded; not volume for volume’s sake but rather as a qualitative detail that is appreciated while wearing or holding. In this more gradual and iterative reimagining, Thomas is ensuring that women will connect with the clothes on an intuitive level. “It’s spring and she’s coming out of winter wanting to be a bit freer.”
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