At a walkthrough of Self-Portrait’s spring 2026 collection, conversation quickly turned to this season’s reshuffle of creative directors, and the 15 debut-making designers vying to define the look of the moment. Founder Han Chong is, like all of us, curious to see what happens there, but will happily leave it to them to set the agenda. The great...
Count Christian Wijnants among those who believe that warm, earthy hues from sand to mocha and chocolate belong to spring. Having studied the iconic portrait series of “the gentlemen of Bamako” by the late Malian photographer, Seydou Keïta, the designer decided to focus “sophistication and quiet intimacy.” That meant prioritizing shape and technique over color, and giving himself...
In Alfred Hitchcock’s 1958 movie Vertigo, Kim Novak’s emerald green dress is a striking visual motif of illusion and mystique. Grace Kelly, in her icy blue chiffon dress in 1995’s To Catch A Thief, was another ethereal enigma. These wardrobes, designed by Edith Head, were central to the Hitchcockian femme fatale, and inspired the cast of women in...
Here’s the exposition: this Undercover collection was a spring sequel to last season’s runway-presented remix of Jun Takahashi’s fall 2004 collection, which he delivered in part as a gesture to mark the brand’s 35th anniversary. Cut to scene: unlike last season, this collection was presented in the showroom. As with menswear in June, there were some relaxed models...
Nerhera’s men’s and women’s collections shared the same theme: Daisies, a 1966 Czech New Wave film. “It’s about two main characters who feel that society is corrupted by power and materialism, so they have no obligation to behave properly either,” explained Ladislav Zdút. Their “form of resistance is not following the rules,” which is something it’s almost impossible...
It is perhaps inevitable that Margherita Maccapani Missoni’s vision should bear the imprint of her family. Last season, she chose an apartment on the Rive Gauche in Paris, inherited from her grandmother Rosita. This time, however, the photoshoot set was a burchio from 1920—an ancient flat-bottomed vessel once used for river transport—which her grandfather Ottavio fell in love...
Away from the runway, Marie-Christine Statz has been collaborating with Benjamin Millepied in recent seasons, including on last year’s hit Grace (Jeff Buckley Dances) and The Nutcracker.For the spring collection, the star choreographer and the designer paired up yet again, trading a grand stage for Gauchère’s intimate, Haussmannian showroom just near the Tuileries. In a brief, poetic performance,...
On a normal day, Sorry Baby writer, director, and star Eva Victor is liable to wear any of the following items: “Big shirt, big pants, sometimes shorts, tank tops, jeans, sweaters, trousers, button downs, Converse, Uggs, loafers,” they say. The brief? “Sometimes ‘kid wearing dad’s clothes’ and sometimes ‘English professor who lets their students use their first name.’”For...
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